With harvest now completed and many of the new wines from vintage 2021 resting safe and sound in wineries across the state, you could be excused for thinking there’s little of significance happening on the local wine scene at the moment.

Of course, nothing could be further from the truth. Cool climate viticulture is a 365-day occupation for Tasmania’s 200-plus vineyard operators.

That noted, this week saw 20 of our leading Tasmanian wine producers down tools and head to Hobart to paint the town red in celebration of the return of Dark Mofo and its Winter Feast extravaganza.

After last year’s cancellation of the popular MONA-driven events due to the COVID-19 pandemic, there was an air of anticipation in southern Tasmania as the clock ticked down the final hours before ticket sales commenced.

The Hobart City Council’s recent decision to drop this year’s Taste of Tasmania may have added to that suspense.

Winter Feast returns to Hobart. Image courtesy Chris Gibson.

“I’m so excited the MONA mid-winter festival event is back this year,” exclaimed Stargazer winemaker Samantha Connew on the eve of the event.

Back by popular demand, Connew is a stallholder at Winter Feast 2021.

She was a stallholder there two years ago. Back then, Dark Mofo ended its seventh year of operation with record-breaking crowds. Around 100,000 tickets were sold, a 25 percent increase on attendance the year before.

Organisers noted at the time that 65 percent of tickets purchased in 2019 were bought by interstate visitors.

Given current COVID-19 concerns and state government-imposed restrictions on travellers from greater Melbourne, similar attendance figures in 2021 would be well beyond the expectations of this year’s organisers.

But don’t let that cloud any judgements about the quality of visitor experiences that can be enjoyed this week, Connew added.

“As usual, with anything MONA-related, there is plenty of the weird and wonderful on offer,” she said.

“You can always be assured to be challenged and/or confronted in some way. What is completely uncontroversial, though, is the brilliant Winter Feast.

“It’s like no other food and wine event. The atmosphere of Winter Feast has to be experienced to be believed, with food inspired by cultures and people from the around the globe showcasing beautiful fresh Tasmanian produce, all accompanied by Tassie beer, cider and wine.”

Tamar Valley winemaker Cynthea Semmens. Image courtesy Prime Perspectives.

“We’re really lucky to be able to hold these kinds of events, especially when you see what’s happening with the pandemic in other parts of Australia,” said Tamar Valley winemaker, Cynthea Semmens.

“Winter Feast is a really fantastic event, so it’s great to have been selected to take part this year.”

Semmens’ Cabernade from her family’s Marion’s Vineyard is bound to be a big hit among Winter Feast visitors seeking non-alcoholic refreshment.

Dark Mofo festivities began in dramatic fashion on Wednesday evening with an opening ceremony and Home State Reclamation Walk (see above) being conducted by Tasmanian Aboriginal dancers throughout parts of the city.

Meanwhile, alongside Hobart’s busy waterfront, Winter Feast was welcoming its first guests to the lavishly decorated Princess Wharf 1 on Castray Esplanade.

This weekend’s continued celebration of Tasmanian food and beverage – barely a stone’s throw from Hobart’s iconic Salamanca Place – will constitute the event’s final days for 2021.

Single tickets are available for purchase each day at the PW1 Box Office from 4:00pm.

Adult tickets cost $20 each on Saturday and allow venue access until 12:00 midnight. Admission after 9:00pm is free of charge.

There is no charge for children and students under 16 years. However, due to COVID-19 protocols, entry tickets are required for each Winter Feast patron, including minors.

Painting the town red. Dark Mofo, 2021.
Image courtesy Robbie Moles Photography.

Free admission applies to all visitors to Winter Feast on Sunday 20 June. The Princess Wharf 1 site opens as usual at 4:00pm and closes at 11:00pm.

Most visitors will need to be seated during their attendance, except when browsing stalls and buying food and drink.

Organisers also note that capacity restrictions will be in place during Winter Feast.

If you think that’s tough, imagine trying to run a successful small cellar door operation during past 15 months, observed Michelle Melick as she welcomed patrons to her Pressing Matters stall earlier this week.

“Under COVID-19 regulations, we are limited to having only 4 guests per visit in our vineyard tasting room,” she mused.

“While we have previously enjoyed entertaining larger groups outside or in our rustic shed, the Tasmanian winter is now beginning to hit hard and a more suitable, more comfortable and larger space just isn’t unavailable. We’re really excited about being involved again at Winter Feast.”

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Plan Ahead

It’s no secret that good friends and great food and wine are key components of a memorable Winter Feast.

Sadly, time and opportunity for enjoyment are often very limited at such large-scale events. That’s all the more reason to think ahead. The best visitor experiences really do hinge on perfect planning – from appropriate clothing and footwear choices to preferred seating locations and likely purchases on site.

Start by downloading a Winter Feast program before you line up for your admission tickets.

Event organisers have done an impressive job bringing together their eclectic mix of food and beverage.

“With nearly 80 stalls, including 30 new, first-time stallholders, offering a range of ethically sourced Tasmanian food and drinks, we’re sure that there’ll be something to suit all tastes,” said Winter Feast project manager Katherine Dean.

Vegan-friendly food on offer. Image supplied.

Snack attacks can be dairy-free, gluten-free, vegan-friendly and vegetarian. Meanwhile, the event’s quirky street food, fermented fare and hearty winter warmers are seldom more than a short walk away.

Don’t be put off by the absence of renowned Tasmanian wine labels like Pipers Brook, Josef Chromy and Tamar Ridge. The range of winemaking talent and innovation among Winter Feast stallholders is astonishing.

More than half of the wine producers participating in the event have been named among the country’s best winemakers in the nationwide Young Gun of Wine Awards. Indeed, 12 of them have been named finalists or award winners a total of 26 times.

First established in 2007 by leading Melbourne wine communicator Rory Kent, the annual awards are intended to promote Australian wine labels and winemakers on the rise.

Keep your eyes out for Marco Lubiana at the Stefano Lubiana Wines stall. He was named the country’s Best New Act at the recent 2021 Young Gun of Wine Awards.

Leading Tasmanian winemaker Samantha Connew.
Image courtesy James Broadway.

In the latter half of 2020, Coal River Valley wine producer Samantha Connew was among three top Australian winemakers nominated for the prestigious ASVO Winemaker of the Year Award by the Australian Society of Viticulture and Oenology.

Connew’s 2019 Stargazer Tupelo was named the country’s Best Other White in the 2021 Halliday Wine Companion Awards. Her latest Tupelo – a blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewürztraminer from the 2021 vintage – can be tasted this weekend at one of Winter Feast’s outdoor stalls.

Among Halliday’s nominees for Best Value Winery last year was Mewstone co-owner and winemaker, Jonny Hughes. Like Connew, Hughes knows a thing or two about handcrafting satisfying, food-friendly wine blends. His 2021 Solstice, released under the Hughes & Hughes label, is a fresh and lively ‘novello’ style made from four grape varieties, including Chardonnay.

With a name like Solstice, it should prove the ultimate Winter Feast red.

Hobart’s Mark Smith wrote his first weekly wine column back in 1994. Now more than 1700 features and 25 years later, he continues to chart the successes of Tasmania’s small scale, cool climate wine industry with regular contributions to some of Australia’s leading industry publications.

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PICK OF THE CROP

Mark gives you his honest opinions about the best wines available right now from Tasmania’s wine makers.

2018 Marion’s Vineyard Chardonnay $40

The sunlit vineyards that dot the West Tamar produce some of the State’s finest table wine Chardonnay. Marion’s has been growing the variety there for more than four decades, so it’s little wonder this is an excellent release from the warm, dry 2018 vintage. Indeed, the wine would not look out of place in a line-up of top-notch Chablis. Citrus, grapefruit and white nectarine flavours are supported by well-integrated cashew nut elements, derived from barrel fermentation in quality French oak. Lingering natural acidity and 12.4% alcohol combine power with elegance. Good stuff.  www.marionsvineyard.com.au

2020 Anim Windrush Pinot Noir $50

Max Marriott is a man on a mission. Having settled in the state four years ago with wife Siobhan and their young family, the former Queenslander farms three vineyards in discretely different locations around Hobart. This wine is an impressive first release from Windrush, at Kingston. It offers beautifully sustained Pinot character, defined by sweet red fruits, smallgoods/charcuterie and Tasmanian sassafras. Indeed, it’s a delightfully aromatic and ethereal expression of the variety which virtually caresses the palate on entry. BBQ quail will best showcase its charm. Give it time to blossom on opening.  www.animwine.com

2019 Quiet Mutiny Venus Rising Syrah $48

Quiet Mutiny is an exciting small scale project from Greer Carland, the winemaking whiz behind her family’s Laurel Bank wines in the Derwent Valley. This is a delightful and very attractive, fruit-forward Shiraz (aka Syrah), made from 40-year-old vines not far from home. Some very astute winery work allows the wine to showcase the juicy vibrancy and freshness the variety can possess when grown in cool climates. Its delicious blackberry, blueberry and white pepper notes are delivered in abundance, with fine ripe tannins taking a backseat, ensuring the wine is eminently drinkable as a precocious youngster.  www.quietmutiny.wine

2018 Pressing Matters R139 Riesling 375ml $33

There’s a lot to be said for late harvest Riesling. Wines from great vintages drink well from an early age and can be kept in a cool cellar for many years. Equally important, they can be sipped and savoured over a number of days once opened and stored in the fridge. This release comes from renowned Coal River Valley producer Pressing Matters. Its citrus and apple blossom aromas are intensely varietal and accompanied by hedonistic flavours of lime, passionfruit and green/nashi pear. Partner with fresh Tasmanian orchard fruits or soft cheeses rather than heavy cakes and puddings. Delish.  www.pressingmatters.com.au

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