McWilliams 2012 Mt Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon

McWilliams 2012 Mt Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon

Region: Hunter Valley NSW | About $18

I can remember years ago when the currently available vintage of Elizabeth on most bottleshop shelves was at least six or seven years old, and also what a joy it was to share a bottle of aged Hunter semillon at least nearing its peak — to savour those rich, but completely dry, flavours of honey on fresh toast.

I also remember the late Melbourne winewriter Mark Shield being absolutely perplexed how Hunter semillon — which he often described as “mean and squinty eyed” in its youth — could develop into something so mouth-filling and easily approachable. But I guess that’s the glory of wine.

The McWilliams stockpile has obviously been caught up with by demand — at least I hope that’s what it is — and today’s buyers are faced with this much more youthful semillon.

Changing winemaking techniques have put paid to any suggestions of “mean and squinty eyed”, but this wine is certainly on the leaner side of the white spectrum and quite thrilling in the linearity and focus of its herbaceous streak of acidity down the palate.

It doesn’t demand cellaring as did the older styles of Hunter semillon, but it will reward those with the patience. And the screwcap is reassuring. It might slow development but at least there won’t de the disappointment after a decade’s wait of opening a bottle and finding the contents undrinkable because of cork taint.

Visit http://www.mountpleasantwines.com.au

— JOHN ROZENTALS*

*John Rozentals is a Charles Sturt University Bachelor of Applied Science (Wine Science) graduate.

Samples for tasting and review should be addressed to John Rozentals, PO Box 3484, Rhodes 2138.