Stefano Lubiana 2008 Reserve Merlot

Region: Granton TAS | $45

Merlot hasn’t always received a good press in New World winemaking countries such as Australia and the US. Anyone who’s seen Sideways — a highly entertaining road movie based on the vineyards of California — will almost certainly remember Miles’s declaration: “No, if anyone orders merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any fucking merlot!”

There’s plenty of good reason for the animosity also often shown the variety by Australian wine scribes. Too many merlots, especially from the major companies, are made to suit what they see as the sweet-toothed American palate — a sort of red-wine equivalent of candy.

No such issue here. Tasmanian winemaker Stefano Lubiana regards merlot with the same reverence as do his equivalents in Bordeaux and he clearly takes his style cues from them.

A low-yielding,drought-effected vintage, some lavish oak treatment — 14 months in 90 per cent new French-oak barriques — plus three-and-a-half years pre-release bottle maturation have produced a beautifully balanced dry red that encouraged the self-effacingLubianato apply the Reserve Merlot tag for the first time.

He’s quite right in describing the dominant fruit flavours as those of plums and redcurrants, and while there’s absolutely no sugar sweetness there is a hint of the sweetness associated with perfectly ripe fruit.

The palate is long and persistent, with the fruit flavours supported by elegant oak, fine tannins and fresh acidity. A very good wine.

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— JOHN ROZENTALS*

*John Rozentals is a Charles Sturt University Bachelor of Applied Science (Wine Science) graduate.

Samples for tasting and review should be addressed to John Rozentals, PO Box 3484, Rhodes 2138.