The traditional Indian saree is the synthesis of technology, science, art, agriculture, religion, philosophy and sustainability.
Integrated flawlessly into a garment which is as practical as it is royal, the saree stands as a tribute to the sophisticated and highly evolved status of ancient Hindu civilisation. It is truly remarkable that such diverse disciplines can be represented in just one dress.
This integration can be examined through a discussion of the production of a traditional cotton saree. Until recently, the cotton was sewn, grown and harvested by hand on a small or medium scale permaculture plot. The cotton would then be sorted, and spun by hand. The threads were dyed using natural substances. The fibres were then taken to the loom, where the magic truly began. If the saree was to have a gold border than considerable effort was used to turn 24 carrot gold into weaveable thread. In the dying and weaving process there was an amalgamation of science and art.
In many parts of India today, this ancient handloom industry still thrives, relying on technology that is ancient, and yet capable of producing such refined textiles, that they surpass the sophistication of textiles produced by any other culture.
Throughout the process, it is human energy that powers all of the technology used in the production of this sublime end piece. The technology is so simple, and yet, it is capable of producing results that can surpass a garment made from any modern complex process. What greater demonstration of sustainability exists? From start to finish, it is only the sun and human power that are required.
The minds of the designers are truly gifted, particularly those who must memorise free-hand warp and weft patterns to produce a single body design. Their ability to interpret and stylise natural and religious symbols is superb, with particular themes being chosen for each different garment. Somehow, religious symbolism can’t help being included and various motifs such as Vishnu’s conch shell, the swastika, or Ganesh’s mango will appear in many designs.
The process of creating a single saree via these means, is a slow one. Slowness is a tenet of sustainability, in that, it gives the natural resources upon which a final product is dependant, the time and ability to regenerate, before market demand increases. It is this very slowness of existence that has ensured the survival and prosperity of the Indian people, who rely on such limited natural resources, in such confined geographical space.
Being continuously worn on the subcontinent of India for several thousand years, the saree is the oldest continuously-worn ethnic dress.
In it’s varying regional forms, the saree communicates various aspects of ethnic traditions. Although, hundreds of different prototypes exist, there are broad categories that can be broken up according to geographical location. The sombre understated natural textures of the east and south, versus the exuberant colours and shiny finishes of the west and north is perhaps the first obvious distinction that one will notice when entering the world of sarees.
The second largest differentiation occurs according to state, with each having it’s own characteristic borders styles, head patterns, colour preferences and weaving methods. Some states favour embroidery as a means of decoration, while others use patterns that are built into the warp and weft in a method known as ikat.
For me, the Eastern pure cotton sarees of Andra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Bengal and Orissa represent the heart of traditional Indian iconography and are, for this reason, my favourites.
They are subtle, refined and require a more intimate knowledge of culture to be truly appreciated. They sand for a culture that was perfectly integrated with the natural world, but one that had achieved great heights of philosophical and moral reasoning, spiritual realisation and sustainability. This is reflected in the natural textures and colours of these pieces, the harmony of designs and the intricate nature of weaving methods. This particular saree style is the dress of India’s agricultural majority. To me is speaks of the people and for the people standing for unity through combined effort, agricultural labour and humility of existence.
Below are samples of more famous varieties from these four regions.
Orissa cotton saree – the wheel is used extensively in Orissan textiles. This ikat method of weaving, was transported to South-East Asia, by Indian traders. This founded the entire South-East Asian ikat tradition
Orissa cotton saree – lions and sacred palm tree design
Bengal cotton with tree motif and temple border; soft pastel hues and bright orange and yellow shades are the preferred colour combination of this region
Bengal cotton saree: Checks are a favoured design in this region
Bengal cotton saree: Wide borders and complex head patterns are another characteristic of the Bengal cotton saree
Andra Pradesh peaches: Light pinks and Sandalwoods are a specialty of this state’s cotton varieties. These are Indias most refined and subtle sarees
Andra Pradesh sandalwoods: This demure saree’s border has the tiger’s claw pattern woven in gold zaree thread
Andra Pradesh cotton: Squiral border pattern, with mango and botanical motifs on the border and buttis
Tamil Nadu: Playful block prints with horse design
Tamil Nadu cotton saree: Bandini tie and dye method used for creating a dot pattern on the border
In contrast to these understated beauties, are the extremely dazzling, and stately sarees of Paithan and Patola on the north-west coast of India in Gujarat and Maharashtra. Patola is known as ‘the Queen of silks’ and paithani, likewise, are so grand that they are handed down from one generation to the next as family heirlooms. They range in price from several hundred to several thousand dollars depending on the amount of pure gold that is used in the border and head piece. Both these varieties are the pinnacle of India’s sublime textile tradition.
Paithani head piece: The complex border design with parrots and peacocks is a typical traditional theme in this region
Patola silk: Like, Orissa, this tradition uses a complex warp and weft ikat technique
The message that is communicated through the saree is modesty and cultivated femininity. To me, this is more appealing than the garish, in-your-face sexual display promoted by many modern fashions.
The sarees’ practicality only becomes apparent when observed in situ. The length of an unfolded saree ranges from 5 to 9 meters and allows for a great number of folding styles. Agricultural workers will allow for higher folding that gives freedom of leg movement, while city dwellers will employ a folding style that covers each visible part of flesh, adhering to the tradition of allurement through ‘less is more’.
One of the features of the traditional saree that made it a truly sustainable dress is that it was able to be worn as a garment or dress without the need for any stitching, buttons, zips, clasps or other additions. It was complete in itself, and easy to iron and fold, being a single flat piece of cloth.
Today the saree is worn with a blouse and petticoat.
The head piece of this dress has multiples uses. For workers, it is used for protection form the sun out in the fields, wiping sweat of the brow, holding hot vessels in the kitchen while cooking and swatting away annoying mosquitos.
The length of the garment allows for full body coverage from the sun and at night is a useful cover from mosquitos – particularly the variety that have the feet as their preferred place of attack. At night or during a siesta the saree can provide enough coverage and double up as a blanket.
The asymmetrical drape of the saree allows cool air to circulate over the torso, while still providing protection from the sun’s ray’s. The loose drape of the garment provides protection from the elements while minimising sweating.
Some, have noted that the pleats of a saree are greatest over a woman’s chest and pelvic region. This emphasises the importance of protecting these areas, as delicate, sensitive and sacred aspects of the female form.
This way of dress has evolved over thousands of years to accommodate a woman’s requirement to look elegant, but also her need to be active and do heavy labour when necessary. It has managed to capture so many different aspects of the culture, including class and status, that the saree, in itself, has become a language.
There is a whole world that exists along side the culture of the saree that governs accessories worn with this dress. As complex as it is old, it is outside the scope of this article, but is worth noting as an important point.
In Indian literature the saree is mentioned in numerous places. The most famous story is several thousands of years old and tells of a famous heroine Draupadi, who was saved from rape, when she prayed to God who converted her saree into an endless ream of cloth. The men who were trying to unravel her saree soon grew tired of pulling and pulling on the endless fabric, and she was able to escape!
All in all, the saree is truly marvellous. In all it’s splendour as the garment of royalty, or in it’s humble version as the cloth of the working class – it is an intrinsically beautiful dress, that is an inseparable part of the true Indian psyche and a garment which should be respected and appreciated by humanity world-wide.
by Dr Malini Alexander.
Bonni Hall
September 19, 2010 at 13:57
Thank you so much. A fascinating article. I have always dreamed of wearing a saree but I really don’t think that I could do it justice.
Malini
September 22, 2010 at 23:27
Hi Bonni
On the contrary – sarees are made for women of all shapes, sizes, heights, ages and skin tones! There is the perfect saree out there waiting for you to find it.
Contrasting is the secret in saree draping – so if you are fair you should wear darker shades, and if you are dark you should wear lighter shades.
If you are young, pastel shades are better, if you are older bright shades are preferred.
If you have a heavy, curvy build try to choose a soft fabric like viscous, georgette, chiffon. If you are very thin then go for a stiff cotton or silk that will add more weight to your build.
If you would like me to help you choose a saree from an online site – I’d be happy to help 🙂
They range in price from about $50 to $350 depending on your budget…
Bye for now
Malini
Bonni Hall
September 25, 2010 at 13:44
I never expected a reply to my posting, thank you again.The advise you have given as to colours and materials is very helpful. I am beyond fair! I now have very white hair and I would say that my shape tends more than a little towards the ‘giant economy size’! Your help would be most welcome.
Malini
September 30, 2010 at 00:17
Hi Bonni
In India the most expensive, beautiful sarees are usually worn by those who are ‘giant economy sized’, and ladies who are tending towards grey or white in hair colour – it’s a social status thing – it makes sense!!!
The saree is designed to make all women look royal – to uplift and present the best aspects of being female – the saree is designed to do justice to you, not for you to do justice to it!!!
Just write a quick e mail to the editor and he will pass on my email address to you.
we can discuss more about the perfect saree for you through e mail!!!
Bye for now
Malini
Pete Godfrey
September 30, 2010 at 11:50
I saw a woman wearing a Saree in Launceston a couple of days ago. She was to all normal perception a plain looking woman (bit of judgement there) but I must say that she looked beautiful in the Saree. The way the robe hangs and the folds of the cloth move and look beautiful.
I would not deal with the crowds in India but I have for many years been captured by the culture.
It would be lovely to see more women in Saris in Australia.
Malini
September 30, 2010 at 14:29
Hi Pete
Don’t be put off by the crowds. I have lived in different parts of rural and semi-rural India where there are no crowds and life is somewhat idyllic.
Even many of the big cities are no more crowded than London, Rome, New York or Paris or Sydney for that matter.
Just make sure to avoid Calcutta!!!!
You can easily see the whole of India without feeling swamped by human bodies.
You should go to India, before the culture dies. It is full of thousands (literally) of architectural marvels, ancient ruins and historical sites that are as fascinating as they are beautiful. It is a truly sublime place.
I agree it would be nice to see more women in sarees. I do wear sarees to any occasion that warrants a formal dress. I was thinking of wearing one to the Melbourne Cup this year!
Rashmi Tapadia
September 30, 2010 at 23:37
Dear Malini,
A nicely written article covering most about Indian Saree. You look gorgeous in picture. Would love to see in Paithani as well.
There are so many things one could write running into pages and volumes but such sum up is hard to write and you did great job.
Rashmi Tapadia
Malini
October 1, 2010 at 01:04
Hi Rashmi
Thank you very much for your positive comments.
I don’t have any nice photos of me in your wonderful, wonderful paithani sarees.
If anyone reads this post, I would like to mention that Rashmi is an award-winning online supplier of India’s most royal saree – THE PAITHANI.
You can visit her products at:
http://www.touchofclass.co.in/NEW-Arrivals.html
I plan to write some smaller feature pieces that focus on my idea of India’s iconic sarees – Paithani is top of the list, due to it’s shear splendour and royal presence.