WHEN I was growing up in Tasmania, there was little conspicuous wealth. (The biggest shock of a first trip to Sydney was the number of new cars on the road, and so many of them were Mercedes, BMWs and even more exotic beasts.)
Doctors were at the top of the social order in terms of prestige and earning power, at least in southern Tasmania which had less landed gentry than the north of the state.
To grow up in Hobart meant to mix with people from all over, from Woodbridge to Bridgewater. Points of contact were numerous, from school holiday activities to music pubs, meetings in the mall and at matriculation college, through extended networks of friends and lovers. There wasn’t the yawning social divide you get in other cities.
It was an unglamorous place but it was grassroots. Tasmanians knew their home state (or, at least, their own half of their own home state — north/south parochialism being what it was and still is) intimately.
The natural environment was the natural playground for a place where even most city-dwellers lived in suburbs that backed onto bush or fronted onto beach.
It was a classless engagement with the great outdoors: girl guide or scout camps, hunting trips, Sunday drives, school end-of-term excursions, surfing safaris, shack holidays, fishing, bushwalking. Tasmanians didn’t have much money but were rich in nature. You could enjoy fried flounder for breakfast or abalone and mussels straight off the rocks, hitch-hike up the East Coast and camp by a beach … we were paupers but paradise was free.
Paupers in paradise was intended as a negative assessment of the state — a warning of what the state would become if development didn’t flow. One of the most damning aspects of the economic situation to those who concurred with this negative assessment was that young people were forced to leave the state to find work.
But let me tell you, I left looking for better opportunities myself and, harumph, it never did me any harm. Going out into the wider world was a great, revelatory, exciting thing to do. I got work and I got a fresh flow of ideas and experiences. Eventually I came home, a better person for it.
Small communities benefit, not lose out, from this refreshment of outlook when native sons and daughters return to their birthplaces.
Do you have a reservation
While I was living interstate, a return home on holidays led us on a disorganised trip up the East Coast, with no particular destination in mind. It was late afternoon as we reached the turn-off to Coles Bay.
I remembered a rare family holiday, staying at the Chateau there. I had spent the entire week exploring the rock pools and running round with other kids staying in the amiable cluster of fibro chalets. I took the turn-off.
We reached there at dusk. No more fibro chalets. No more Chateau. It was now an “eco-tourism” resort, whatever that means. The manager eyed off our jeans and t-shirts as we approached the desk. “Do you have a reservation?” “No, do you have a room?” A sniff, then a grudging admission in the affirmative. A quick totalling of our cash resources revealed a shortfall. Our gold Amexes were, unfortunately, away for retreading. “Is there an ATM in Coles Bay?” A thin smile thawed the edges of the manager’s face: “The nearest is at Swansea,” she said triumphantly.
It was the warm welcome of the new Tasmania.
We took our inadequate funds further north to the Silver Sands Motel at Bicheno, where they were more than sufficient to pay for a room for the night, a few beers and a counter meal.
I met a mainlander the other day who had moved to Hobart with her husband after buying and selling a succession of homes, each time making a pleasant return on their investment as they gravitated further out from the hub of one of Australia’s major metropolises.
Prior to Hobart, they had lived in a mining town, which they were gratified to see, shortly after buying their home there, was starting to attract considerable speculative investment and development from the big smoke. “It’s going to happen in Tasmania too,” she said to me encouragingly.
She and her husband were already planning their next relocation.
Gabfest, who takes his motto — Opinions are like assholes, everybody has one, from Clint Eastwood — is a Tasmanian media professional.
Debox
July 21, 2005 at 03:19
Touch my cherished old heart at home Gabfest.
Our little oyster here being overburdened with artificial pearls and the heritage that I most treasured no longer available for my children to know and thus to know me. Fight the dim-witted bastards the white tasmanian might think – or the black ones.
But tis not the colour nor the era but the indigenuity that is suffered by empirical abortion.
sam the sham
Warwick Hadfield
July 21, 2005 at 03:29
Gabster,
I am interested in this yarn for a lot of reasons.
One is I have an opposite story. My first visit to Tasmania was in 1983, a fly drive holiday where the car and accommodation and the itinerary were all pre-arranged.
Our first night was in Hobart in a hotel that was straight out of the Ark. I think you could smell the animals. Certainly it sounded as if they were still on board. We couldn’t sleep for the noise.
We almost lasted the first night, and were treated like lepers for daring to complain.
Next night was the West Coast. Thankfully we had been warned in advance. Be in the restaurant ( a fancy word for something more akin to a Greasie Joe’s ) before 8pm or you don’t eat.
It says much about Tasmania that I fell for the place despite this very robust anti-visitor approach.
When I go back now, and not nearly often enough, the contrast is amazing. The tourism industry has a much better idea of what it’s about. It understands it’s there for the visitor, not the other way around.
There are trade-offs and let downs in all this, I have no doubt. It’s a pity the folk at Freycinet weren’t a little more accommodating. Hopefully they will read what you have written and learn from it.
Smart people in Coles Bay should be moving at speed to get a hole in the wall in their town.
One bad experience echoes through the place a lot longer and louder than 200 good ones.
The successful tourism business seeks to eliminate all bad experiences. My perception, and I accept that market surveys of one are always very dangerous, is that in Tasmania now there is a very strong culture of replacing bad experiences with something far more meaningful.
Cheers,
Gabfest
July 24, 2005 at 03:40
Thanks for your comments, Warwick. Good to hear the Tasmanian tourism industry is producing the goods.
But I must hasten to explain that the incident at Freycinet took place over 10 years ago and in no way reflects on modern standards or modern management of that particular establishment.
I wrote about it more to illustrate a historic turning point, from the scruffy bunch of no-hopers Tasmanians were supposed to be to fully paid-up membership of the everything is fabulous if you’ve got the money to pay for it club. (Coles Bay probably has a cash point by now, too.)
I guess, in my inarticulate way, I was trying to comment more on the pricing of Tasmania’s most beautiful places in a way that excludes the less well-heeled amongst us. Sometimes it’s with expensive “eco-resorts” which seem to draw huge areas under their aegis; or a proposal like the one that would build 500 homes with their own boat ramps on Ralph’s Bay.
Very nice to live there, I’m sure, if you can stand the wind. But whose bay was it to sell for development in the first place? And is what we gain in jobs during the building of this bizarre reclaimed suburb worth the bucks? Like, there are some things that money can’t buy …
No?
Cheers,
Gagfest
Debox
July 28, 2005 at 05:19
Save Ralphs Bay. No don’t save it. Optimise its use potential. Yes let’s save it.
Why hasn’t it been properly evaluated and use nominated by the community along with every other pixel of Tasmania so that the knee jerk development crisis don’t happen. State planning is improving we know, but we aren’t being reassured are we. Stresses are getting pretty serious aren’t they. We need some critical toe treading decisions don’t we. Some sane eco-economic prioritising. Some serious line drawing.
I’m forever nervous about Carlton Bluff. It’s getting deeper into inevitable urban graffiti pollution. Why isn’t the State recognising its life value and saving it? Decisions too tough. Land use politics needs to be as tough as tornados and global warming. If a few private owners don’t like it – tough; tell it to the drought, the torado, the sanity of saving what remains.
I’m forever nervous about the forests around Elephants Pass and St Marys, about the granite and endemic plants in the urban heart of Bicheno. I’m peaed off about brick veneer and concrete kerbs at Dover. I’m nervous as all blazes that the mindsets of media massaged mediocrity is taking us forward to Orwellian sadness and suffocation.
mont pleads