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In the depths of a cave by the Pinturas River, a hunter pressed his bloodstained hand to the stone wall. The handprint marked a moment of truce between the urgency of killing and the terror of dying. Sometime later, next to that print, another hunter laid his soot-blackened hand. And other hunters followed, leaving the stone wall dotted with prints the colour of blood, ashes, earth, or plants.

Thriteen thousand years later, near the Pinturas River in the town of Perito Moreno, someone writes on a wall, “I was here.”