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Topper’s Mountain 2012 Gewurztraminer

Region: New England NSW | $35

I first realised the potential of gewurztraminer from the cool, high-altitude New England region tasting the wines of Port Macquarie’s Cassegrain. Indeed, John Cassegrain has made several highly desirable wines using gewurztraminer grapes purchased from Mark Kirkby, owner of Topper’s Mountain vineyard, near Tingha, just north of Armidale and high in the Great Dividing Range.

This is a delightfully fragrant dry white without any of the heavy, coarse hair-oil character often associated with this grape variety in warmer regions. Those old enough to remember Californian Poppy will know exactly the less pleasant aromas I’m talking about.

This wine, with its subtle suggestions of lychees and rose petals, would be a great match for many lighter, gently spiced Asian dishes.

And like gewurztraminer from Tasmania it has the potential for cellaring. I recently tasted the Cassegrain 2005 Limited Release Gewurztraminer — a Topper’s Mountain wine — which was still fresh and vibrant but had developed sufficient depth, substance and complexity to go toe to toe with Szechuan-style chillimudcrab.

Visit www.toppers.com.au.

— JOHN ROZENTALS*

*John Rozentals is a Charles Sturt University Bachelor of Applied Science (Wine Science) graduate.

Samples for tasting and review should be addressed to John Rozentals, PO Box 3484, Rhodes 2138.